Izakaya for first-timers: how it works
An izakaya （居酒屋） is a Japanese pub — but the format confuses first-timers: small shared plates, ordering rounds, a surprise charge, and a bill that arrives as one lump sum. Here's how the whole thing works.
Getting in and seated
Many izakaya have a cover charge system. When you sit down, a small appetizer called otoshi （お通し） appears that you didn't order. It's not a mistake and it's not free — it's typically ¥300–500 per person, and it functions as the table charge. Don't send it back; just enjoy it.
You'll often be handed a hot towel (oshibori). Use it to wipe your hands, then fold it and set it aside.
How ordering works
- There's no courses — you order dishes one or two at a time, sharing everything in the middle.
- Order drinks first, then a couple of small plates. Order more as you go.
- To call staff, a loud "Sumimasen!" is normal and expected — not rude.
- Many places have tablets for ordering now; some still use paper slips you mark and hand over.
What to order if you can't read the menu
Safe bets that exist at nearly every izakaya:
- 枝豆 edamame — salted soybeans, the universal starter
- 唐揚げ karaage — Japanese fried chicken
- 焼き鳥 yakitori — grilled chicken skewers
- 刺身盛り合わせ sashimi moriawase — assorted sashimi platter
- だし巻き卵 dashimaki tamago — rolled omelette
Point at the menu and say "kore o hitotsu" （これを一つ — "one of these"). For drinks, "nama biiru" （生ビール） gets you a draft beer; "nihonshu" （日本酒） is sake.
Paying
The bill comes as one total for the table — splitting by item isn't really done. Say:
You usually pay at the register near the entrance, not at the table. No tipping — ever.
Quick etiquette
- Pour for others before yourself; hold your glass with two hands when someone pours for you.
- Don't stick chopsticks upright in rice.
- It's fine — expected, even — to be a bit loud. Izakaya are lively by design.